Mora Clocks: Investing In Swedish Heritage
Mora clocks are breathtaking to look at, and have become tremendously popular over the last 10 years. Swedish tall clocks are commonly called “Mora clocks” however, it is known that only clocks and cases produced in the Mora municipality can accurately bear the name of Mora. The mora clock began in around the Mora municipality in Dalara provence in a small town called Ostnor during the late eighteenth century. According to Wikipedia, Mora clock faces are often marked with the inscription “A A S Mora”—the initials of Krång Anders Andersson (1727-1799) of Östnor, traditionally known as the first clockmaker in the district of Mora.
The clock works were crafted by farmers, the first being Krang Anders Anderson (1729-99) , who needed to find additional income during the winter months. The iron mines of nearby Sala made iron affordable for the farmers to work with, which allowed the clock industry to grow. It started with a few farmers who needed extra money, but by the end of the nineteenth century the clock making business in Sweden thrived. More than 50,000 clockwork motors were produced during this time.
Each family around the region would specialize in producing one or more of the parts required for these clocks. A finished clock would often be sold without a case, in which the buyer would then have to arrange for one to be made locally. As many as 1,000 clocks were being made each year. Clock cases evolved from a straight case in the eighteenth century to a curvier form in the nineteenth century. Within 80 years, the competition from inexpensive German and American clocks put an end to this cottage industry.
Jo from Swedish Interior Design, shares some ideas on what you should look for when you want to buy a Mora Clock.
Many people’s first time with a Mora comes from the movie ‘Somethings Gotta Give’ where there is a mora clock prominently displayed in the living room scene with Jack Nicholson. Original 1800s Mora clocks are very rare now so here’s a few pointers to help you find the right one.
They are most worked in pine but very occasionally built in oak and they measure height wise from 180-250cm and feature a great wealth of decorative carvings and original paint finishes.
Each Mora clock is a unique handmade object dreamed up by the imagination of its maker so every clock has a different the hood, clock face decoration, belly shape, plinth etc .
1800s Swedish Mora clocks generally come in a number of types –
Fryksdall: These clocks have a pinched waist, wider belly, curly scroll decoration on the waist and neck and extravagant hood carvings. They come in a variety of whites & greys and would be owned by wealthier individuals.
Bridal: The most unusual of mora clocks, often from Jamtland, these pieces have the finest levels of decorative carving. They exhibit the finest level of craftsmanship in the Mora clock world.
City: a catch all phrase to describe Mora clocks that have fine levels of decoration or beautiful painted finishes that set them apart from the simpler country clocks.
Country: the country clocks are usually plainer in appearance with less decoration. Often given as wedding presents, they would be a prized possession in poorer families. Normally they have simpler hood crowns and less use of glass. They may have no face glass at all or pendulum viewing port for example. Painted in earthier folk art colors in the Swedish Kurbits folk art tradition, they show with yellows, oranges, deep russets, browns and ochres.
There seem to be 3 schools of thought in terms of paint finishes.
Some people strip the clocks back to the bare wood and repaint but that doesn’t make sense to me. Every clock has lived a history and by over restoring, you strip away its special ‘aura, it becomes just a clock body made of old wood devoid of personality making it not much different from a repro one in reality.
Also many clocks have ‘scraped back’ paint. But this is just a paint effect really. Originally the paint would have been a rich chalk paint in perfect condition, and the scraped paint ‘effect’ is just that – an interior design effect similar to ‘shabby chic’ that you see on lots of restored Swedish furniture. It looks nice but its not real!
At Swedish Interior Design, we prefer to keep the paint whenever we can as it is and only repaint where the original coat is in poor condition or it has been repainted at some later time. When we do it is sensitively done to allow the mora clock to live and breathe so to speak.
Finally you need to think about whether you want to use the original clock mechanism or fit a battery powered electric one. This may seem a strange question but mora clocks have very ‘country’ parts, unlike the precision clock mechanisms of English clocks of the period.
So they can be difficult to set up and can be affected by a change in temperature causing the wood in the clock body to shift slightly or being jolted as you walk past. This affects the swing planes and can cause the clock to stop. Also the mechanisms are open to the air and its very easy to get dust caught in the cogs.
So that’s why most of our clients go for the battery option. It doesn’t need winding and it looks exactly the same as the original from the outside. Its easy to do and there’s no damage to the clock as the original mechanism is only kept in place by small screw and you can put the original mechanism back in place whenever you like (although it will need cleaning and setting up professionally if you do).
Further Reading:
- Martha Stewart Appearance, Mora Clocks, and a Winner! Cove Table
- “Mora Clocks and Tall Case Clocks”. Cupboards and Roses. Retrieved 2006-12-29.
- “Swedish Long Case Mora Clocks”. Ryder Antiques.
- http://www.antikuhr.de The Mora Story
- “Swedish painted furniture”. Julie Foster Decorative Antiques. Retrieved 2005-12-17.
Edgar Reeves Lighting and Antiques sells this terrific late 19th century tall long case clock in Swedish “Mora” style. The clock is elaborately painted with floral details from a period perspective. “Mora” clocks are a type of long case clock which were made in, and derived their name from, the town of Mora in Dalrana provence Sweden. Edgar Reeves has this clock priced at $3,200
Leif Antiques has for sale an early Gustavian clock by Johan Lindquist who was a royal clock maker to King Adolf Frederick 1750-1771. This clock was made towards the end of King Frederick’s reign and is a prime example of Lindquist’s work and the beginning of the Gustavian Period. This clock is in exceptional condition and is priced at $80,000
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5 Pro Painting Tips For Black Furniture

Anyone can paint a piece of furniture black, but there are certain tricks to make your painted pieces appear more valuable than they really are. Many of us feel that sensation of discovering a beautiful piece of furniture at a garage or estate sale, and then dreaming of what to do with it next. If you are anything like me, scrolling through pictures of paint chips, and color combinations can be a thrilling experience.
If you love lighter colored interiors such as white, light blue, or mint green, then black furniture might be a consideration for your interior. Painting a piece of furniture black can create tremendous contrast for your interior. Here are a couple tips to making your painted furniture look antique:
1. Use Matte Paint
You won’t find shiny finishes on the old antique furniture in Sweden. This article won’t cover the modern black painted furniture that one would expect to see in the 50’s or 60’s , but rather the aged furniture that someone could come across 100 or more years ago.
When selecting a sheen, consider starting out with a matte finish. Once the piece is dry you can add either a tinted wax or a tinted glaze to the final finish to give it even more depth. The sheen will then produce a look between flat and satin. Starting out with a low sheen will keep the overall finish looking rustic even after you apply additional paints.
2. Paint Your Hardware
While there are so many ways to feature hardware on black painted furniture, painting the hardware can be a smart way to making a black piece look understated yet elegant. Take a look at a French Provincial chest painted in olive by Knack Studios. The hardware was painted and carefully distressed. In this case, a little bit of distressing went a long way. Compare that photo, with this photo of a black painted bombe chest which is also painted in black. The hardware is painted, but not distressed. While bombe chests are considered some of the most spectacular pieces of furniture, this piece falls short for me.
– Darken your hardware with chemicals. Rockler sells a brass darkening solution that ages brass, copper and bronze metal. It allows you to change the color gradually so you can control how dark the final product turns out.
– American Accents by Rustoleum sells an Oil Rubbed Bronze spray paint that I have used on many pieces of my own furniture. After the paint has dried, simply distress the hardware with a sponge sander.
3. Show Off The Wood With Distressing
Adding a bit of interest to your furniture can go a long way. There are several ways to add patina. Two ways that come to mind is by distressing, and another is by layering paint.
A: Distressing is a sure way of adding depth and interest to a vintage piece of furniture. Some people like a LOT of distressing, and others like MINIMAL distressing. It is rather interesting to see how people fall into those two categories. Look at a few pictures on pinterest to decide what appeals to you. The best thing about distressing is if you go too far, simply just repaint the areas, which will tone down the distressing.
Style 1 – A Little Distressing:
Well cared for furniture that really isn’t moved a lot over the years will only have a little bit of distressing. When I think of a little bit of distressing, I think of my own grandparents home. I can remember a china cabinet sitting in the exact same spot for 30 years or longer. When this same china cabinet was passed to my cousin, it was in perfect condition.
This look is favored by many painters. A little distressing can go a long way. Areas to distress would be around the knobs on a chest of drawers, the legs of chairs, the back of chairs, and around drawer sides. The trick to distressing is to look for the areas where natural wear would occur. On a desk for example, arms would naturally rest on the front portion of the desk, so that would be the area to remove paint.
Style 2: A LOT of Distressing:
This is the style that I tend to enjoy the most. It can be a tricky finish to accomplish, and I will show you how I have achieved my personal looks over the years.
When I first began painting, I always made sure I primed my furniture, because I wanted the paint to stick to the furniture. I was afraid of the paint lifting off the furniture, so I always made sure I primed. As I experimented and advanced in my painting, I found I was pretty limited when it came to distressing as black primer doesn’t exist. I would buy gray primer, and see the gray paint in the areas I distressed. It wasn’t until much later, (almost a year later) that I discovered if I sanded well I could skip the primer all together. Many of the pieces I worked on were wood, and not metal, or plastic. The options then started opening up for me.
A few years later when I stopped turning over furniture, and just worked on my own furniture, I discovered the real trick to getting the Swedish finishes were to remove the polyurethane, stains or paint all together. I found the raw wood went a long way to getting the results I was after.
I have always been attracted the paint finishes that looked as though they have been left out in the outside elements for several years. Layering your paint with this technique can really open up the overall finish.
Distressing Tricks:
Sponge sanders found at your local hardware store can be a great tool for distressing I have found using a sponge sanders can give you the flexibility and control than electric sanders. Using a hand electric sander can take off A LOT of paint, which often times forces you to go back and repaint some of the areas. Using a hand electric sander might come in handy if you have several layers of paint that you want to expose. Another trick is to remove the paint before the paint is dry. Many of us have used this technique because it is simply easier. With sponge sanders, purchase the ones what work with water. In this instance, have a warm bucket of water and wash out your sponge sander as you go.
4. Add Patina To Your Black Paint Finishes
When it comes to really ornate furniture such as Louis XV styled furniture, why not highlight some of the intricate details? One simple way to do this is with paint. Often times painters will try to replicate this aged look by applying a beige or gray paint to bring out the beautiful depths of heavily carved furniture.
How is this done? Glaze is the easiest way to achieve this look. Simply mix half and half paint to glaze ratio in a bowl. I have simply painted on the glaze in the past, and with a wash cloth, wiped it off within a few minutes. The glaze paint mix will dry to have a transparent look, than a solid paint look. This works great in corners of detail where dust would collect over time.
Many years ago, I highlighted an black painted empire dresser with light gray paint. I wasn’t pleased with the look, because the gray painted areas looked too heavy, than natural.
I washed it off and noticed that the watered down remnants of paint that were left, perfectly highlighted the areas. It did a remarkable job of making the dresser look more expensive than it was. If you do plan on trying out this technique, dilute your beige/gray paint with a glaze, and be sure to have a damp rag to remove the extra paint. Just a little highlighting paint will go a long way.
Black Metal Furniture:
I never considered using a green wash on black until I had seen it done on an antique metal canister, so I tried it for myself. Simply mix together a bit of a grayed green color with glaze. Like the gray / beige paint in the suggestion above, you can remove the paint with a wash cloth, or create a sponged effect with the glaze on the paint to get the look of rust. Like any aged furniture, you want to try to leave the green paint where rust would normally happen. I have used it on ornate chairs, and it has really pushed the value of my furniture up a notch.
One solid color all-over looks fantastic on most pieces of furniture. While occasionally you may come across a piece where you can break up the paint with the natural wood. Consider adding dimension to your desks, dining table, side tables, which all have tops that can be left in it’s natural raw wood. Consider washing the wood (paint diluted with water) over raw wood, and painting the rest of the piece a solid black.
Paint the can be another way of adding depth. Painting only some of the areas of your furniture can allow for a more unique and interesting look. For example, the inside of a secretary can be left in it’s natural wood, or painted a different color.
If you have paint tips to share, please leave a comment below. Please link to your blog or website to your articles about painted furniture. We look forward to hearing from you.

Painted Black Furniture Swedish Desk – Picture Credit Master Henry Blog
Black painted writing desk, Sweden circa 1760 with slant front and two over two
drawers. The interior in blue paint has multiple drawers and cubbies, with two
hidden compartments. Simple bun feet. (Depth when open is 34″.)
Black painted Swedish period (1650-1750) Baroque chest of drawers.- Old Is New Blog
Marie Desk– Swedish Furniture By Gustavian Price: £2,600.00
Rustic Wire Baskets – Painted Furniture Glass Cloches From Næslund Antikviteter
Swedish Rococo Desk. Black lacquered Stockholm Work with gilt bronze fittings.
This beautiful picture credited to Lars Sjoberg was featured on the Swedish Blog Designe
Swedish Decorating With Rustic Looks – Sköna Hem
Rustic Elegance – Sköna Hem
Rustic Elegance – Sköna Hem
Chest of three drawers, Denmark circa 1750, with serpentine drawer fronts,
shaped top, and bracket base. The hardware and painted surface are original
Rustic Elegance – Sköna Hem
Black Painted Mora Clock From Tone on Tone

French Louis XV Hand Painted Commode –Carrocel Restorations
Each facet of this commode has intricately hand-placed inlay using old-world techniques. The inlays are absolutely beautiful. The ebony finish on the wood is a great contrast to the more vibrant inlay. Also, take note of the smooth clean lines that flow up and down the piece – met at top and bottom with solid brass floral carvings. This piece would certainly be a welcome addition to a hallway entrance, bedroom, or living room.
The Dining Room At An 18th Century Manor House In Burgundy
The World of Interiors, Jun 2005 genusloci.blogspot.com
Christopher Howe offers a very unique stock. Since the age of 20, he has acquired items dating from the 17th through to the 20th centuries. Most of his stock is available to view online or can be seen in his shop located on the prestigious Pimlico Road in London.
Distressed Swedish Antiques From Næslund Antikviteter
Galerie Half in Los Angeles is selling a stunning Swedish secretary which is still painted in its original milk-painted finish. The distressed paint and its brass handles really provide a great contrast against the black paint. You can see that this secretary has a really dark painted finish that you often don’t get with normal latex paint. The color is striking and would look terrific against a classic gray painted wall.




Swedish Furniture From Bukowski Market

Bukowski is the leading auction house founded in 1870 by the Polish nobleman Henryk Bukowski. Bukowski Market also happens to be Sweden and Finland’s largest on-line internet site for quality auctions. Bukowski Market offers modern capabilities to the auction experience; one that combines online shopping with spectacular antiques and reliable expertise.
Bukowski pairs together buyers and sellers from around the world and allows antiques to be brought to the public for sale. All items sold at Bukowski have been reviewed by experts in showrooms in Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmö, Helsinki, and Norrköping. Bukowski offers a large assortment of antiques, design, art and decorative items for all tastes. Before bidding from Bukowski, be sure to look at their terms of sale, and have your shipping and pick up arrangements set before bidding.
Book Review: Lars Sjöberg’s The Swedish Room
Lars Sjöberg is well known for his Swedish guides on Gustavian interiors and 18th and 19th century Swedish furniture. Sjöberg is a curator of the National Museum of Stockholm, and is author of several books : The first one being The Swedish Room (Creating the Look) published in 94, then L’Art de vivre en Suède, (2002), and his most current book Classic Swedish Interiors published in 2010Lars Sjöberg has made it his life’s work to preserve Swedish manor houses that originated out of the 17th and 18th centuries.
Over 40 years he has acquired over 10 homes from around Sweden. His most current book – Classic Swedish Interiors published in 2010,focuses on Sjöberg’s most complex project: the manor of Regnaholm. The home was unoccupied for about 40 years when Sjöberg arrived in 1966. This home was his first allowing him to experiment with refurnishing and copying old Swedish furniture. Odenslunda, a small manor from the 1770s details an exquisite panelled exterior and is said to be his family home. Sörby was a renovation which was a 17th-century manor house, reproduced in its entirety for an exhibition in Stockholm.
Well known for his in depth knowledge about Swedish history, he has transformed many grand homes around Sweden with the help of his wife Ursula, and father whom was a metal smith and skilled in the carpentry trade. He told The Telegraph that as a young child his mother would read to him the history of Finland and Sweden and for his 10th birthday he was given his grandfather’s book about Sweden’s palaces and manor houses which fueled the fire for collecting historical furniture and restoring anything Swedish. In the 1990’s he designed a Gustavian collection for the Swedish company Ikea. The Ikea collection was designed with his help, and being that he was involved with the Swedish National Museum in Stockholm, he was the perfect go-to-guy.
The Swedish Room” written in 94, with his wife Ursula is still one of the very best books on Swedish decorating and remains current considering it is more than a decade old.
This wonderful book features 192 pages of great attention to detail of the many ornate finishes found in Swedish decorating. This book is a must have for any decorative artist or faux- finisher.The interiors selected for this book are simple ones with soft color schemes, washed plastered walls, pickled floors, and certainly authentic 18th century interiors. The homes all feature a cleaner, pared-down look with not a lot of clutter which you would normally see see in french homes, but rather very carefully selected objects that are neoclassical in nature. Sjöberg features stately homes, which appear to be palaces or mansions in nature, but with simplistic interiors and basic elements. Swedish impressions from farms and cottages with higher end furnishings can inspire any person who is after the grander looks but with a natural appeal.
The most impressive of this book is his Ekensberg home which is located on the banks of the Lake Mälaren, about 40 km away from the Swedish capital Stockholm. This three-story Italianate villa built in 1788-90 feature some of the most stunning pictures. One in particular shows a time capsulated finish after layers of wallpaper were removed which revealed late eighteenth century decorations. (See below) The walls were originally covered in a linen which provided a perfect base and smooth surface for painting. The house was built and finished in neoclassical style during the time after the return of king Gustav III from Italy 1784. Lars Sjöberg has continued renovating this house since 1976 and says the work is never finished!
The book is split up into 5 main sections detailing specific periods of Swedish history.
Section 1- The Stirrings of International Style discusses the impact of the French and Italian Baroque of the period between 1640-1720.
Section 2- New Alignments discuss the Late Baroque and the Influence of the Orient, and England through 1720- 1750.
Section 3- Progressive Refinements discuss the spread of the French Rococo throgu the period of 1750- 1770.
Section 4- Elegance and Enlightenment discuss the Gustavuan style thriugh 1770-1790
Section 5 discuss the influence of Neoclassicism and the French Empire which took place between 1790- 1820
Additional sections discuss painters in Dalarna, Halsingland and Gastrikland, with a section that details restoration and recreating period homes.
Thank you to Belgian Pearls for the bottom fabulous pictures. The rest were obtained from a free preview of Google Books, which can be viewed for free. This book needs to be on your shelf. I guarantee it serve for many inspirational projects.













































